Mid-Victorian Egyptian Revival 18K Yellow Gold Diamond Ruby and Paillonné Brooch

Item Details

An impeccable Egyptian Revival 18K yellow gold 0.70 ctw diamond, ruby, and red and blue paillonné enamel converter portrait brooch from the Mid-Victorian Grand Period (1860 – 1885). This mid-19th century brooch bears two French Weevil import duty marks that indicate the French Second Empire (1852 – 1870) era. This classic example of Egyptian Revival jewelry portraiture showcases a young woman wearing the gold, blue and diamond Uraeus, the Egyptian rearing cobra crown most famously associated with Cleopatra. The woman is dressed in blue and gold, the paillonné enamel has gold accents and rose cut diamond highlights. The paillonné red enamel backdrop creates a studied contrast of geometry to the setting, and references the red and gold crown of Hathor, the ancient mother goddess. The piece further alludes to Egyptian deities by way of the pair of asps that flank the body, recreating the form of the Hathor crown worn by Isis. The 21K – 22K yellow gold asps are set with rose cut ruby eyes, and rose cut diamond studded bodies. To the top and bottom are individual buttercup bezel set old European cut diamonds, the top diamond fronts the hinged bail that converts this brooch to pendant form.

Era: Victorian Grand Period, Egyptian Revival
Metal Type: 18K Yellow Gold
Brooch or Pin Closure Type: C-Catch
Hallmarks: French Weevil Import Mark to the C-Catch and Pin Stem
Total Weight: 9.80 dwt

CENTER DIAMONDS
Count: 2
Shape: Old European Cut
Color Grade: F – G
Clarity Grade: VS2 and SI2
Dimensions: 3.30 mm
Total Carat Weight: 0.30 ctw

SIDE DIAMONDS
Count: 26
Shape: Rose Cut
Color Grade: F -G
Clarity Grade: VS2 – SI2
Dimensions: 0.08 mm – 2.30 mm
Total Carat Weight: 0.40 ctw

SIDE STONES
Count: 2
Type: Ruby
Shape: Rose Cut
Treatment: Heat
Dimensions: 1.20 mm

• This item has been evaluated and verified by an independent Graduate Gemologist. (CINTM).

• All diamond and gemstone grading is done under GIA standards as the mounting permits, where gemstones are present; where mountings impede accurate measurements, (estimated) dimensions are provided. All weights and measurements are estimated and approximate. Industry standard and accepted treatments for gemstones are assumed unless otherwise noted.

Condition

- chip in the blue enamel.
- minor markings throughout.

Dimensions

- total approximate weight, inclusive of all materials, is 9.80 dwt.

Item #

18DAL028-516